That weird thing on top that should be a sight also appears to double as a way to create a spark. It appears to push down on a flint thats embedded into the stock.. Very odd.
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I don't own ,or recall looking over a buggy rifle or similar underhammer.
Been around a couple .
Never heard of flint mounted where a thumb piece might go. Getting such an arrangement to spark....And why, might not make for a good design.(?)
It's in your possession.
I'd squirm about changing it's condition till value is known. And the markets interest in condition. Which I'll keep repeating to myself..
Transmission fluid makes a good penetrating oil. Keep it from wetting any wood. Mixing it half and half with acetone (found in many nail polish removers) makes it even better.
A nipple wrench properly sized and a millimeter at a time back and forth can reduce stripping a nipple out.
If clear , tight ,and not rusted through near I would not worry about removing it.
The bore is another story. And again the caution of messing with the rifles condition till collector value is known. And potential buyers desires of condition...
Sorry , just sayin...And not saying to do what follows...
Fine steel wool and oil ,or rubbing compound with fine steel wool on a proper rod jag can smooth a bore. No need for a mirror finish.
A bore is like a cast iron skillet , if you understand their pores and seasoning. Just feel for bad spots while removing heavy rust if any.
Always use a muzzle guard. Scraping the side of the muzzle can wreck a barrel. Some can be corrected by an experienced smith , but avoid it in the first place.
With the bore clear and no rough snag points in it a lubed patch can be run down it.
If nipple is clear and hammer is off it (a fine piece of piano wire can be used for a pick if nipple is not clear , expect it's flash hole to be smaller at the bottom. Though not all are/were. So a smaller hole than the top of the nipple can be expected....You'll hear air hiss out of it.
Hammer staying at half cock when trigger is depressed is modern proper condition. Worn ,out of spec or damaged locks can drop the hammer at halfcock. (Not good.)
Needless to say , lock has to securely "latch" at full cock too between tumbler and sear..
A gunsmith familiar with such an arm looking it over might help. (No offense meant , you do know some arms.)
Measuring barrel to check for bulges would compliment "feeling" for a crud ring or bulge if/when the bore is smooth enough to run a lubed patch up and down.
Not uncommon to have a barrel tapered from rear to front. Other shaped existed too , but a small area of greater than surrounding diameters could be an issue.
Neat rifle..Congrats!
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