Worth something to a collector here who doesn't have one because it is a Canadian.
Model 335? Single mantles mean one less mantel. A good thing for me.
The model is a dependable workhorse.
By switching the generator tube to a 339 it can run on kerosene. A preheat cup would be wanted with that or heat it up with a torch each lighting. (I wouldn't molest it. Just an option to know bout.)
E-Bay is crazy. But then Japan has some folks with an appetites for vintage Coleman lanterns. And deep pockets.
Great condition lanterns of your model see asking prices above a hundred dollars.
The equivalent around here might be a double mantle 220 model. No lantern left behind at ten dollars. (Unless real scrap.)
A nice one for 20 25 dollars. 30-35 in a crowd.. And a mint one depends on who wants it.
Single mantle model 200A's and the older of them fetch a lot on E-Bay. Where hundreds can be asked I doubt I've paid over 30 for one?
The one piece filler cap hints of a newer lantern. Like mid seventies on up. But caps can be swapped out too.
On the bottom of the fount should be two numbers together for the last two digits of the year of manufacture. A single digit on the other side for the month. IF numbered like American lanterns.
But there were some side stamps and exceptions too i'd expect.
The rim of the fount on the bottom and the bottom itself would want to be checked for bad pitting wanting to make holes.
I usually knock the worst loose stuff off and wipe down with an oily rag. Careful where the rag goes after so not to spread rust and more importantly not to combust from being confined.
Your vent looks real good. You don't have a nut on that and overtightening a vent nut chips the porcelain easy.) It'll clean up nice.
The collar will clean up too. Not saying I would much but certainly doable.
The frame (cage the glass globe is housed by) could be oiled too.
They way most are poorly plated I'd just give it a citric acid bath then oil it.
A electrolysis bath would be fine too. Just don't overcook it.
Pumps are reparable. Use leather. Not the new crap.
The tube the pump rides in needs to not be nasty. Might be one of the first things to check. A shotgun cleaning brush can only do so much and because the gasket/seal of the pump plunger has to seal against the tubes walls....Well let's have a smooth tube on your lantern.
The filler cap that looks newer(no problem) has a vital seal. Fully replaceable if it won't hold pressure. First you need to get it off. Which should be easy. If not welcome to abused lantern school.
An o -ring can replace a seal but are not proper.
Original seal needs removed. And is surprising resistant to removal. I use a torch with cap on a section of plank. Yes a fire hazard mat exist. As may others if you are married and performing such indoors.
Then a curve tipped screw driver to chip/scrape out residue.
Peek inside fount. Clean would be great. Odds are good if proper fuel was used prior. If it looks as clean asa tea kettle of your own you'd use it should be good for a test run.
One lantern I kept hearing a scraping sound on my way home with.
A scaffolding nail was rolling around in the fount.
Perhaps someone was using it to check the fuel level?
Given the things others have found in founts, kids seem attracted to removing caps and adding surprises for some reason.
The wire with a bit of loop on it opposite the valve knob is for your generator tip cleaner.
It moves an eccentric block that raises and lowers a very fine wire tipped pricker rod that goes in and out the tiny hole in the generator tip. Fuel deposits or carbon can be at play there.
We know hot dry glass breaks when hit with hot water.
Lantern globes are tough but I baby them anyways.
A cool rinse and gentle dish soap/water cleaning.
I haven't yet but there are folks who tack cracked globes with crazy glue.
Modern Coleman mantles are junk.
You see some old Coleman silk-lites grab them.
Sizes vary.
But a hole in the side of one emits a jet of hot gas that will leave a white spot or worse on a globe.
Peerless are currently the go to mantles.
You can revisit thorium and iridium for radioactivity potential and brightness results.
Either act like a clay coating that when burned leave a firm ash which is what we heat with fuel to radiate.
Lighting the mantle types treated with faint radioactive material is an outdoor away from pets and livestock and not to inhale smoke during burning off original lighting.
( We don't want to know how many I huffed in my youth but it was several. Plus lead from multiple sources.)
If /after your lanterns pump works and cap seals you can pressurize it and set it in water to see if the fount has any pinholes in it. Absent a leak you should have a runner with some effort.
The air tube will want a plastic wire tie run through it at least to check for mud daubers and evict any spiders. Just spider web can affect air flow. And it is air being mixed in the "chamber" at top of lantern above where generator tube enters (generator tube gets hot and pressurized fuel from fount gets thinner and is mixing with air... The poof poof will become a better hiss and mantle start to glow due to vaporized fuel instead of liquid. (We've already ran the pricker rod a couple times before attempting to light so we hear fuel as soon as we turn the valve knob. Thus reducing the odds of seeing any raw fuel).
Then as you've always done with the modern models you turn the valve knob on fully. Which removes the extra air input it was allowing in addition to the air elsewhere already.
Got it fired up?
You've upped the value now.
The Canadian version of the 220F was not produced in large numbers. The Canadian version has several differences from the US version above including the “dot-dash” collar and the ventil…
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🇺🇲 Good morning everyone. The ponds are doing well, lots of lillies this year.
